Regular readers will know that I am a fan of living a more sustainable life, especially over the last five years since I’ve really educated myself on mass consumerism, and the effects of mass consumption on our world. If, like me, you love fashion, but you’ve not read Fashionopolis by Dana Thomas, then get thee to a bookstore, because it’s a NEED TO READ book which shines a spotlight on the extent of our need for new - and a dire need for change. If you’re not a bookie type, then check out the documentaries on Netflix around fast fashion and climate change - there are many! Either way, it’s time to educate ourselves a bit more on how our choices as consumers affect the planet.
In this blog I’m going to focus on fashion - and I’m rejigging this piece now for 2021, because, not only does the message need repeating, but also because I’ve teamed up with FASHION FORVEVER NI to really drive home their message to keep clothing and textiles out of landfill. Incredibly, across the UK, we throw away 1million tonnes of textiles per year, with 300,000 tonnes ending up in landfill - that’s just plain wrong when every single textile has a potential second (or third, or more) life or use. And not just as clothes on our backs (we’re talking dog beds from old sheets, rags from torn clothing etc etc)
We all need to be more aware of the impact that our everyday choices have on the world around us, including what we wear. The pollution caused by ‘fast fashion’ and the unethical production practices that many fashion producers use has led to the fashion and textiles industry having the worst reputation for climate damage. It brings a whole new meaning to the term ‘a crime of fashion’. Choosing natural fibres over chemically based ones is a good choice, but only marginally better given the amount of water that is used to create just one pair of jeans or a cotton shirt (10-20,000L of water!!).
The need for speedy production and low costs in order to deliver frequent new collections means that environmental corners are often cut, leading to water pollution, toxic chemical waste and increased levels of textile waste, not to mention unethical employment practices, (but that’s a whole other issue!).
Customers are demanding better sustainable practices from their fashion providers, so the fashion industry needs to step up, join rank and become more responsible. Some only pay lip service to sustainability, and to date there is no governing body to control what is labelled sustainable and what’s not, so there is A LOT of greenwashing going on. I mean, how can a dress made from 100% polyester (basically plastic) be labelled ‘conscious’ at one well-known high street store?!?
The growth in popularity of resell sites Vestaire Collective, HEWI, DePop and eBay highlights how the industry is changing. Preloved pages are popping up all over Instagram - both those of bricks n mortar stores now forced to close, as well as individuals selling off their wares. And this growth is happening because more customers are demanding it. Maybe through this pandemic and the subsequent lockdowns we’re also realising that we don’t actually need as much newness as the flashy marketing teams lead us to believe? Either way, the growth in circular fashion is a good thing - and long may it continue.
I think it’s important to say at this point, that I still love creative design and fashion, and will still buy clothes; but I will do so more consciously. I will seek ways to celebrate my passion while protecting the planet. I will check labels. I will purchase fewer, and when I do purchase I will do so with the planet and long term in mind.
As well as buying and selling on sites like eBay, dePop, HEWI and Vestiaire Collective (which I've done for years), one of the biggest changes I've made to date is to completely revamp the format of Belfast Fashion Week, from a collection of catwalk events to a RESALE RAIL SALE. (I don’t know when the next one will be, but stay tuned… And meanwhile let’s live for DePop and eBay and Instagram for inspo).
Resale markets are just one way in which we can make small changes and raise awareness of the importance of slow, sustainable fashion - and illustrate how reselling can help make a tangible difference. My personal aim in creating and hosting them was to help normalise shopping second hand for fashion; but also to increase awareness of the bigger issue of fashion and textiles eco-damage, and help show how reselling/buying second hand can help to balance out what’s been done and prevent further extensive damage with a constant demand for new, new, new.
To see real change in our lifetime, we all need to make more mindful, considered decisions about what and how we buy, so I’ve drafted up a list of small actions we can all take, because individual actions add up! Please don’t feel overwhelmed all at once, no-one is expecting you to overhaul your lifestyle overnight, but having said that, every little effort really does help the collective solution, so you can choose to dip in and out of as many of these suggestions as possible. Just whatever works for you. :-)
LET’S START WITH WHAT YOU HAVE…
SLOW DOWN by sticking with what you have for as long as possible. Think #30Wears or #30WearsChallenge. REWEAR favourite items. No one needs a new outfit for every single social occasion - I have some favourites that are over two decades old which I dig out every year or two and still love wearing. And I LOVE to see celebs in the same outfit twice!
REPAIR/RESTYLE - Sewing is no longer for grannies! A quick look at the #ThriftFlip hashtag on TikTok will show you who is repairing and recycling or upcycling clothes. It’s the Gen Z’ers. So dig out your needles and thread or pop to a local dressmaker or alterations business for repairs or a new look with a complete update. I love The Zipyard in Holywood and SeamsPerfect in Belfast
SHARE - We can use hire sites like HURR to hire special occasion items or shop ‘n’ share with friends
SWAP where possible - with friends or at a specific event - a win:win solution resulting in a double save from landfill.
It seems like a celeb thing to do, but it’s cheaper and way more cost-effective than you think to INVEST in the services of a stylist to help you shop our own wardrobes & create lots of variations from what we have, to help avoid buying needlessly
AND IF YOU DONT WANT SOMETHING ANYMORE….
RECYCLE regularly – sell, swap or donate unworn clothing to increase its life cycle.
CONSIDER what’s in your wardrobe and what actually suits you and your lifestyle. Can you see yourself wearing a particular garment for a long time? If not, then donate.
IF YOU REALLY JUST WANT SOMETHING ‘NEW’
SHOP SECOND HAND to increase the lifespan of existing pieces and remove the negative impact of production. Opt for high quality used or vintage where possible. We can use sites like eBay, DePop, HEWI, Vestiaire Collective & ASOS Marketplace, as well as bricks and mortar preloved or second hand stores and charity shops AND the massive growth in resellers on Insta. (Just look up the hashtags like #reseller #thriftedfind etc)
THINK about what you buy, what you're supporting through your purchase and how much wear you'll get out of each item. Ask yourself - will it last? And how many times will I wear it? Am I investing in a forever piece? Or am I buying with my existing wardrobe in mind and complementing what I already have to create new looks?
CHECK the labels to see how a garment is made, check both the composition and whether the fabric is recycled or organic, plus where it came from (many clothes come with a massive carbon footprint)
AVOID synthetics where possible, unless they affect functionality, as these have a significant environmental impact in production and shed micro plastics when washed.
SHOP LOCAL from smaller independent designers. A large initial outlay will work longer and harder in your wardrobe.
All of this doesn't mean we have to take the fun out of shopping. It can be possible to use the High Street responsibly; change all begins with our mindset, though next time you crave a quick fix, do pause and consider vintage or re-tailoring something you already own. It just takes a little thought. And if you think a stylist is a really indulgent expense, just think of all the money wasted on impulse buys in the past.
A quick, but important side note here: As it stands, sustainable fashion isn’t accessible for everyone (size, income vs affordability of new organic/sustainable fashion); but that could change if it became the norm for people of all demographics. The more we support and normalise rewearing, or shopping independent vintage & preloved shops and buying/wearing second hand, the bigger and better those outlets will become.
Once you get into the swing of things, recycling clothes is fun and easy to do - as well as a very kind thing to do for the planet and our future generations. It's time for a fashion revolution - we can't wait, and nor can the planet. For further ideas on what, when, how to recycle and upcycle and repair and reuse your fashion and textiles, head over to www.instagram.com/fashionforeverni which is full of tips and tricks.
C x
