Tucked away on Howard Street, Deanes EIPIC is the creation of renowned chef Michael Deane who, along with Paul Rankin and later Niall McKenna, revolutionised the eating out scene in Belfast in the 1990s and noughties. I have known and watched Michael Deane for years and have always admired his chutzpah and talent (evident by the fact that he is – I think - the only chef in Ireland to have held a Michelin star for 13 years) – firmly placing little old Belfast on the culinary map.
Unlike its more casual counterparts, Deane’s EIPIC is reminiscent of traditional grandeur, with its charcoal walls, slate floor and linen-clad tables, albeit with a modern twist in the form of sparkly accessories and white leather upholstery.
It is the place you go to when you want something a little bit fancier than normal. Service is always top notch (although I know the regular check-ups and table-sweeping can be a little off-putting for those who may prefer a more casual eating place) but the staff really know their stuff and are never over formal, nor too informal (which I personally find worse, with all its intrusiveness).
If your table isn’t quite ready or if you have some time to kill before the meal, then I recommend sitting at the Champagne bar. It’s the perfect place to people watch comfortably, or enjoy the company of your date if you have one.
Without a doubt the focal point in the room is the glass wine pillar - smack, bang in the middle of the restaurant and which sommelier Didier Nyeceront has filled with one of the finest wine collections to be found in Belfast.
EIPIC (pronounced epic) derives from the word EPICUREAN which means;
“A person devoted to sensual enjoyment, especially that derived from fine food & drink” – a very fitting name, in my experience.
Each plate is carefully chosen and created using predominately local produce of only the finest quality (no surprise there).
Don’t expect to be hit with any over-whelming, punchy notes here. Instead, they know what works and as a result, with each mouthful, you are treated to a subtle marriage of flavours, paired together so beautifully you can see why they stick with what they know.
Example courses include; rainbow trout served with dashi, ponzu, beetroot, sesame, pork and whiskey; BBQ quail leg ravioli, carrot, rice, endive and mustard seed; wild bass, apple, cucumber, mushroom, sea herbs, herring roe (a personal favourite) – delicate flavours perfectly balanced – you get the drift.
Meat is supplied by restaurant-favourite - Peter Hannan – and cooked exceptionally well as you’d expect.
Glenarm shorthorn with autumn vegetables, tarragon, foie gras and brown butter simply melts in the mouth and is guaranteed to please even the fussiest of diners.
I don’t say that lightly!
The seasonal aspect means the menu changes regularly, although you can be sure that the standard never changes with each plate consistently beautifully crafted. These chefs know what they are doing – and they don’t get it wrong.
The restaurant is open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner as well as Friday lunchtime and the set menu ranges from £30-£70. Wine pairing is a must if you like a tipple. The Sommelier selections are equally as impeccable as the food.