There seems to be a trend, in Belfast restaurants, where address-based naming is the done thing. OX on Oxford Street; James St, where you’d expect it; and Howard St on… yes, you guessed. There’s a TV quiz question in there, somewhere, to phone in for a prize holiday! That said, there are so many good restaurants in this city, it helps distinguish which is which, in a conversation; and Howard Street is a very good restaurant.
The frontage gives little clue to the treats that await, inside. The slightly unassuming – some might suggest unkempt - appearance leans towards the industrial. A feeling that isn’t dispelled as you enter, but which belies the precision and delicacy of the food presented.
Its award-winning chef, Marty Murphy, knows what he’s doing. Howard St. uses the best of Northern Irish ingredients, which are sourced locally by the chefs and presents it with imagination and flair, beautifully cooked. Naturally, this also brings with it a strong seasonal aspect, which ensures regular revisions to the menu. It’s unlikely you’ll get the urge to go elsewhere, for something different.
The menu is an eclectic mix of traditional and Asian cooking; sometimes on the same plate. Slow cooked Ox cheeks, spiced tomato madras sauce, red cabbage & peanut pasty, mangetout salad & black vinegar dressing might give you some idea of what I mean. Contrast that with Chargrilled Pork Belly, chorizo & white bean cassoulet, Clonakilty black pudding fritter & Hispi cabbage – or Beer battered Fish & chunky chips, tartar sauce, mushy peas – and you may grasp that there’s bound to be a flavour for everyone, somewhere, no matter what you fancy.
I think it’s worth mentioning that the three-course set menu has one of the best selections I’ve seen; and at around £30, or less, it’s great value, considering the quality on offer.
There’s a real buzz, to Howard St., and what I’d describe as a ‘lively atmosphere’ – the volume perhaps enhanced by the bare brick walls, stripped boards and high-ceilings - and just goes to emphasise that Belfast seems to have something for everyone; or something for any mood that takes you, looking at it on a personal level. Of course, this will not please all of the people, all of the time. That said, I think consistency is important. We’ve a yearning for different venues, as our moods change. In which case, I like to know where I can get what, in Belfast. Having established what I yearn, consistency avoids disappointment. Howard St. is consistently lively; has consistently good service, with consistently good food. I, for one, hope it continues that way.
It has a comprehensive list of artisan wines, together with an array of spirits. However, given all that I’ve said, regarding the atmosphere, you might think it would also provide a cocktail or two, to boot. You’d be thinking correctly!
The blurb describes “Sean’s show-stopping cocktails from his ‘rejuvenated’ list containing our signature cocktails along with classics with a twist”; and they don’t disappoint. Just try a few; that’s the best I can say on the subject!
