Somehow, it seems fitting that Belfast’s Thanksgiving Square – home of the iconic Beacon of Hope (Nuala with the Hula to those of us in the know) is the location of a now-established food beacon, directly opposite, at No.1 Oxford Street. The address is also fitting.
It’s getting increasingly difficult to stand out, in the Belfast food and drink sector, as the quantity of quality establishments has burgeoned in recent years. This makes it all the more impressive that the one Michelin-starred OX has taken the city’s food experience to a different level, rivalling some of the world’s best. OX is ‘of the moment’, in terms of its aesthetics and ambience, but its food raises the bar, which is ultimately what matters in a place, such as this.
It’s a rather anecdotal observation, but it seems to me that when diners return, time after time, and continually choose the Tasting Menu, it leads one to conclude there’s something special going on. I can understand why they might do this, (apart from the fact that only the tasting menu is offered on weekend nights). But there’s the feeling that you want to try the lot anyway; that you wouldn’t want to miss out on anything.
To avoid that FOMO-feeling, the biggest selection possible – even a mouthful of each – is better than having to settle on a single choice. “Next time, I’ll pick a whole meal… I just can’t quite decide which it would be… I’ll have the tasting menu just one more time, thank you!”
You have to say that OX is rather special. I can’t help but wonder when its second Michelin star will arrive. It really is that good. It’s hardly surprising that it was awarded the top prize, taking home Best Restaurant in Ireland, as well as Best Chef (Ulster) for Stephen Toman, at the recent 2019 Food and Wine awards; and Nicole Crow (pastry chef) and Alain Kerloc'h (sommelier) being in the top three of their respective categories, is also worth a mention, just to emphasise the depth of talent it harbours.
It’s fair to say that this is not a cheap meal out. The tasting menu, with wine pairing and cheese, can soon rack up to around £125 per head… “because you’re worth it”? Of course, you are! That said, there are far less expensive options available. And lunch is divine if you wanted a more affordable way to enjoy it.
Belfast’s restaurant scene seems to be advancing quicker than many of its residents realise, judging by comments I sometimes hear. Restaurants, such as OX and Deane’s Eipic, are world-class establishments. Although there are still only these two Michelin-starred eateries, numerous others are knocking on that door, or simply providing excellent food without the hassle of the Michelin man at their door. (Muddler’s, SHU, Howard Street, James Street South – you get my drift). More to the point, the standard required, to satisfy the discerning clientele, has raised the mid-range beyond recognition.
The décor at OX is stark and, in some ways, similar to the Edinburgh restaurant, Ondine, which I reviewed, recently. I say similar, insofar as it’s minimalist and the focus is most certainly on the food. The large windows and excellent light are also reminiscent of the Edinburgh eatery.
Where it differs is that OX could almost be mistaken for a pop-up restaurant, though one also gets the feeling that the industrial-infused-with-minimal look is as carefully presented and planned as the food, rather than a ‘make-do’, laissez-faire approach. This is trendy, with a capital ‘T’, and designed with a specific market in mind.
My only downside? The comfort of the seats. This is my gripe with nearby Muddler’s Club too. If I’m not on the banquette, I find the hard wooden chairs a tad, well, hard, after a few hours. My derriere is pretty well cushioned it has to be said, but I’d like it to be a little more so.
Of course, there’s an additional aspect to OX, which provides an entirely different option; though, guests will often use it as a place to extend the time spent at the venue. I’m referring to OX Cave, which serves bites, charcuterie and cheeses, together with a huge selection of excellent wines.
Since pictures paint a thousand words - and I won’t subject you to that many - I suggest you take a browse through the gallery, to get a better idea of what OX is all about.
It is wonderful, there are no two ways about it. Long may it continue; and I’ll be hoping it gets that second star, which it deserves in my opinion.